Criterion Crest BLM ride - the back door

Exploring the east side BLM land along the Deschutes river to the missing town of Criterion

Ride: January 31, 2021

Above and beyond the closed gate

Several years ago I rode up the Deschutes River Access Road from Maupin, trying to trace the old rail line that parallels the river. Along this section, it has been converted to a well maintained gravel road. However, several kilometers up the road there is a gate and a caretakers house that bars entry to both motor vehicles and bicycles. The former rail bed is owned by the Portland Deschutes Club. They generously allow pedestrians to continue along the road for a short distance more before completely closing off the road to everyone (except members).

However, I noticed a trail leaving the turn around area, heading up a gulch. A little online investigation revealed that this land is a former ranch converted to open BLM land. At one point in time an utopian town with the right “Criterion” existed briefly at the crest. The Criterion ranch was purchased in 1995 and converted to BLM land. There are trails and a “Criterion Crest road” but beware, to some degree, the lines are more prominent on maps than on the ground. However, the BLM land is open to bikes.

Starting point

We began our loop in Tygh Valley to create an 80 km figure 8, riding in January. The descent from Tygh Valley provides a worthwhile stop at White River Falls. In January, the water is raging.

An abandoned waterworks at the bottom was built to last, although a rather large boulder has rolled through the stone walls. Beautiful rusted, early industrial age machinery whiles away the time inside.

Abandoned water works at White river falls. The trail down isn’t really suitable for bicycles, but it is worth the walk. At Sherars Falls, native American fishing may be taking place.

Cross the Deschutes river and turn right on the river access road. This is an active road used by fisherman, hunters and tourists but it’s a delightful grade up to Maupin. It seemed to be the season for fly fishing. 

If you need refreshment or a break, Maupin is a great source. And if you are tired, you could return to Tygh Valley. But continue on up the river road for this adventure. Ride until you encounter the very obvious gate with numerous exhortations. At this turnaround area/parking area, there is a tiny trail leading east up through a gulch. This is the beginning of abundant solitude as you climb toward Criterion Crest.

After half a kilometer, you open up into a broad valley filled with flaxen grass (in January) and demarcated by red rock cliffs. This portion of the trail is fairly easy to follow although sage brush is encroaching in at least one area. Asyou ascend, to the south the Mutton mountains come into view. Westward, the Cascades begin to appear behind you. Splendid views change over each ridge.

When you reach the barbed wire, you have a choice. It’s certainly a reasonable decision to turn around and descend back the way you came. Crossing the barbed wire into the least ranchland technically put you onto Criterion Crest Road. It is a very loose definition of a road and was a pure mudfest in January that took several hours to walk the 10 km. Your goal is visible as a microwave tower on Highway 197. After the cows have mixed the mud in the grass together with their excrement, I can describe this as pure adobe mud that will latch onto your bicycle tenaciously. If this is dry and you continue, it would be a fairly quick ride out to the Highway. 

Highway 197 is pure joy as a descent back into Maupin.

The Riverside with an outdoor fire pit was an excellent warm up after the ride. Plenty of food and brew here.Returning on the highway to Tygh Valley was a relatively gentle incline with plenty of shoulder and a bit more traffic.

There are pros and cons to each season. In winter there are no snakes out that I could find, but the mud is at its finest in the pasture this time of year.